Article 10
Two of the most commonly discussed regenerative treatments in aesthetics right now are exosomes and polynucleotides. Both work with your skin's own biology rather than against it. Both produce gradual, natural-looking results. And both are treatments I offer at Dr Alluris Aesthetics. But they work through different mechanisms, suit different concerns, and are not always interchangeable. This article sets out the key differences clearly so you can approach a consultation with a better sense of what you are looking for.
What They Have in Common
Exosomes and polynucleotides are both injectable regenerative treatments. Neither adds volume in the way a dermal filler does, and neither relaxes muscle in the way an anti-wrinkle treatment does. Instead, both work by influencing biological processes within your tissue, encouraging your skin to repair, renew, and strengthen itself over time.
Results from both treatments are gradual. They develop over weeks to months rather than appearing immediately after the session. A course of treatments is standard for both. And both are well tolerated across a range of skin types with minimal downtime.
Exosomes: Cellular Signalling and Growth Factor Delivery
Exosomes are extracellular vesicles, tiny structures produced by cells that carry biological messages between them. In an aesthetic context, the exosome preparations I use contain concentrated growth factors, proteins, and signalling molecules that instruct your skin cells to repair, regenerate, and produce collagen and elastin more actively.
Think of exosomes as sending a highly specific set of instructions to your skin. The skin then acts on those instructions, producing a biological response that improves texture, hydration, radiance, and overall cellular health. The effect is noticeable from around three to four weeks after the first session and continues to develop over the course.
Exosomes are particularly strong for:
- Overall skin renewal and radiance
- Fine lines and early textural concerns
- Skin that looks dull or fatigued
- Combination with microneedling, where the micro-channels created significantly enhance absorption and effect
- Scalp treatments for hair thinning, where growth factor delivery to follicles can support reactivation of the hair cycle
A standard course involves three to four sessions spaced three to four weeks apart, with maintenance typically every four to six months depending on how your skin responds.
For a detailed explanation of how exosome therapy works, the following article goes further:
Polynucleotides: Structural DNA Support and Tissue Repair
Polynucleotides are long, highly purified DNA fragments, typically derived from salmon or trout sperm, that work at a structural level within the tissue. When injected, they stimulate fibroblasts directly, encouraging collagen and elastin production, improving the extracellular matrix, reducing localised inflammation, and supporting deeper tissue hydration.
Where exosomes work primarily through signalling, polynucleotides work by providing the biological raw material that supports cellular repair and tissue rebuilding. The distinction is subtle but meaningful in terms of where each treatment delivers the most value.
Polynucleotides are particularly strong for:
- Delicate or thinning skin, particularly under the eyes and on the neck
- Skin that has lost resilience and structural integrity over time
- Fine lines and crepey texture in areas where the skin is thin
- Supporting recovery and repair after environmental damage or acne scarring
- Long-term collagen support as part of a broader maintenance plan
A standard course involves three sessions spaced three to four weeks apart. The peak result is typically visible at around 12 weeks after the final session, with maintenance treatment recommended every six to twelve months.
I use CE-marked polynucleotide formulations including Plinest, chosen for their clinical evidence base and safety profile. More detail on this treatment is in the dedicated article:
How to Choose Between Them
The honest answer is that the right choice depends on what your skin actually needs, which is something I assess at consultation rather than deciding in advance. That said, these general patterns are a useful starting point:
- Choose exosomes if your primary goal is skin renewal, radiance, and overall cellular rejuvenation, or if you are combining with microneedling for scalp or facial treatment
- Choose polynucleotides if your primary concern is structural resilience, thinning or delicate skin, or longer-term collagen support in a specific area
- Consider both if you want to address skin quality on multiple levels. The two treatments complement each other well and can be sequenced or combined into a broader regenerative plan
Neither treatment is universally better than the other. They work through different mechanisms and serve different priorities. In some cases, a plan that incorporates both over time produces a more complete result than either alone.
What the Consultation Covers
When we discuss regenerative treatments at consultation, I look at your skin condition, the specific areas of concern, your medical background, and what you are realistically hoping to achieve. I explain which treatment or combination I think is appropriate for your situation, what a course looks like in practice, and what you can reasonably expect from the result.
I also consider how regenerative treatments sit within your broader treatment plan, whether that includes anti-wrinkle treatments, dermal fillers, or other options. These treatments do not exist in isolation, and the best outcomes tend to come from plans that have been thought through as a whole.
A Simple Next Step
If you are considering a regenerative treatment and want a clear, unhurried explanation of which approach suits your skin best, a consultation is the right starting point.
WhatsApp Dr Adam directly on 07721 390017, or book online at drallurisaesthetics.co.uk or via the online booking page.
Consultations are available at SkinTouch, 77 Church Road, Crystal Palace SE19 2TA and at 58 South Molton Street, Mayfair W1K 5SL.
Results vary between individuals. No treatment outcomes can be guaranteed. All treatments are subject to a clinical consultation to assess suitability.
