Article 4
Microneedling has been around long enough that most people have heard of it. What fewer people realise is that the term covers a range of quite different devices and techniques, each with its own depth of effect, ideal use case, and recovery profile. Understanding the differences helps you make a more informed decision about which approach is actually suited to your skin or scalp concerns.
This article is part of the Beneath the Surface series. If you are coming to it fresh, these earlier pieces provide useful context:
Microneedling uses ultra-fine needles to create controlled, precise micro-channels in the skin. This triggers the body's natural healing response, stimulating collagen and elastin production and encouraging cell turnover. The result, developed gradually over several weeks, is improved skin texture, tone, and firmness.
Depending on the device and technique used, microneedling can also significantly enhance the absorption and effectiveness of regenerative agents applied or injected at the same time, including exosomes and targeted serums. This combination approach is what makes modern microneedling particularly versatile as a treatment platform.
The dermaroller is a handheld cylindrical device with microneedles arranged around a rolling barrel. As it is moved across the skin, it creates rows of micro-injuries to stimulate collagen formation. It was the original microneedling tool and remains in use in some settings.
Its limitations are meaningful in a clinical context. The rolling action drags across the skin rather than stamping vertically, which creates less controlled injury patterns, more lateral tissue damage, and greater discomfort than newer devices. Needle depth is also less precisely adjustable. For these reasons, the dermaroller has largely been replaced by motorised pen-style devices in clinics where precision and safety are the priority.
Dermapen is a motorised microneedling device that stamps the skin vertically using rapidly oscillating needles. The vertical action is important. It creates cleaner, more consistent channels with significantly less lateral drag than a roller, which means less trauma to surrounding tissue, faster healing, and a better safety profile across a range of skin tones and textures.
Needle depth and treatment intensity are precisely adjustable, making it suitable for both superficial concerns such as fine lines and skin quality, and deeper targets such as acne scarring, textural irregularities, and early laxity. It is also an excellent delivery platform for regenerative agents. The micro-channels created allow exosomes and other active preparations to penetrate to the dermal layer where they can have the most meaningful biological effect.
I offer Dermapen microneedling at Dr Alluris Aesthetics, including in combination with exosome therapy for both facial skin renewal and scalp treatments for hair thinning. The combination of mechanical collagen induction and biological regenerative signalling is one of the more evidence-supported approaches currently available in non-surgical aesthetics.
RF microneedling combines the mechanical action of microneedling with radiofrequency energy delivered through insulated needles directly into the dermis. The thermal energy produced causes collagen remodelling at a deeper level than mechanical needling alone, making it particularly effective for mild to moderate skin laxity, acne scarring, and more significant textural concerns.
RF microneedling is available at SkinTouch, 77 Church Road, Crystal Palace, where I work alongside a trusted team of aesthetic professionals. It is a strong option for clients whose primary concern is skin tightening or deeper structural remodelling.
One distinction worth knowing: RF microneedling is not typically combined with exosomes or other biological agents applied at the time of treatment, as the thermal energy from the radiofrequency component can compromise the integrity of growth factors. For clients where combination regenerative therapy is the goal, Dermapen remains the more appropriate platform. For clients where tightening and deeper remodelling are the priority, RF microneedling is often the stronger choice. These are not competing treatments; they address different needs.
Microneedling is not limited to the face. It is increasingly well supported as an approach to hair thinning, particularly in androgenetic alopecia and diffuse shedding patterns. By creating micro-channels in the scalp, it improves blood flow to follicles, activates cellular repair processes, and significantly enhances the absorption of active agents applied during or after treatment.
I offer Dermapen scalp microneedling at Dr Alluris Aesthetics, both as a standalone treatment and in combination with exosome therapy for hair thinning. The combination of mechanical follicle stimulation and concentrated growth factor delivery is one of the more promising approaches in regenerative hair treatment currently available without surgery. Results are gradual and vary between individuals, and a course of sessions is standard for meaningful benefit.
More detail on this combination treatment is in the dedicated article on hair restorative treatments at Dr Alluris Aesthetics.
The right choice depends on your primary concern, your skin type, and whether a combination regenerative approach is part of your plan. This is something we work through properly at consultation rather than deciding in advance of seeing your skin.
If you are considering microneedling and want a clear picture of which approach is right for your skin or scalp, a consultation is the most useful starting point. I will assess what you want to address and give you an honest recommendation based on what I actually see, not a default protocol.
WhatsApp Dr Adam directly on 07721 390017, or book online at drallurisaesthetics.co.uk or via the online booking page.
Consultations are available at SkinTouch, 77 Church Road, Crystal Palace SE19 2TA and at 58 South Molton Street, Mayfair W1K 5SL.
Results vary between individuals. No treatment outcomes can be guaranteed. All treatments are subject to a clinical consultation to assess suitability.